Every lash artist’s nightmare is having their clients’ lashes fall off prematurely. It’s a frustrating and time-consuming issue that can seriously impact both your reputation and business. After all, no one wants to lose their clients’ trust and face the stress of correcting retention problems.
If you’ve ever been caught in a situation where your clients are unhappy with how long their lash extensions last, you’re not alone. In this blog, we’ll dive deep into what causes lash retention issues and how to prevent them from happening again. Plus, we’ll share top tips on how to improve retention, the best lash extension glues, and essential aftercare for long-lasting lashes.
What is Lash Retention and Why is It So Important?
Lash retention refers to how long your lash extensions stay in place on your client’s natural lashes before they shed. The retention rate is a critical part of your work as a lash artist, as it directly impacts client satisfaction. While there isn’t a set amount of time for how long lash extensions should last, factors like your client’s natural lash growth cycle, hormonal changes, and even the seasons can influence retention.
That said, your goal is to ensure that your lash extensions stay intact for as long as possible, which helps build client trust and keeps your business growing.
As a lash artist, you’re responsible for more than just the technique; you need to understand the elements that affect retention. Imagine you see 50 clients a month, and a few of them aren’t satisfied with how long their lashes last. If you don’t correct the retention issue, you risk losing those clients—and worse, they may not even tell you why they switched to another artist. Maintaining excellent retention is critical to the success of your business.
Why Do Lash Extensions Fall Out Prematurely?
There are many reasons why lash extensions might not last as long as they should. Lash extensions are bound to fall out naturally over time, but when your clients report seeing their extensions fall off too soon, there could be an underlying issue. Often, what may appear to be a problem with retention is simply the natural shedding process. When a natural lash sheds, the extension stays attached for a while longer before falling off as well. This is completely normal and doesn’t indicate a problem with the adhesive or technique.
However, if a large number of lashes are shedding or falling out within a few days of application, you need to investigate further. Factors such as improper humidity, incorrect adhesive usage, poor cleaning routines, or client habits can all affect lash retention. It’s important to educate your clients about the lash growth cycle and how retention works so they don’t panic when they lose a few lashes.
Essential Tips to Achieve Amazing Lash Retention
Achieving fantastic lash retention is not about applying more glue—it’s about understanding the environment, products, and techniques that work best for your clients. Here are some crucial tips for ensuring your clients’ lashes last as long as possible:
1. Maintain Optimal Humidity Levels
Humidity plays a vital role in how well lash extensions adhere to natural lashes. If the humidity is too high or low, it can interfere with the adhesive’s curing process, leading to poor retention. Ideally, the humidity in your studio should be between 40% and 60%. If you live in an area with fluctuating humidity, investing in a humidifier or dehumidifier can help regulate the moisture levels in the air. This will ensure that your lash glue cures correctly, allowing for better retention.
2. Invest in the Right Lash Adhesive
Not all adhesives are created equal. The best lash extension glue for retention will depend on your environment, the humidity, and your application speed. Always shake your glue thoroughly before use to ensure the ingredients are properly mixed. If your glue is too thick, it can create a weak bond, while glue that’s too thin may not adhere properly. Choose a glue that suits your specific working conditions for optimal results.
Consider using a lash adhesive that’s designed for high retention. Some glues have faster drying times, while others are better suited for humid conditions. Understanding which adhesives work best for your setting can greatly improve retention rates.
It is important to start slow as you perfect your technique. Otherwise, you will be working backward, having to redo sets over and over again, or lose clients in the process, since their lashes are popping off.
Don’t get hung up on using a glue that has a longer drying time (3-4 seconds). Always ensure that you pick an adhesive that matches your actual speed!
A good rule of thumb is to switch adhesives when you find yourself holding the lash extension to the natural lash for a few seconds. This usually indicates that your speed has increased, and you can start using adhesives with a curing time of 0.5-1 second or 1-2 seconds.
3. Control the Temperature in Your Studio
Just like humidity, temperature can also impact lash retention. Extremely high or low temperatures can affect how quickly the adhesive cures. If the temperature is too high, the glue can dry too quickly, preventing it from bonding properly with the natural lash. On the other hand, if the temperature is too cold, the adhesive may take too long to cure, leading to weak bonds. Make sure the temperature in your studio remains between 20°C – 23°C (68°F and 74°F) to keep the glue working at its best.
IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER:
Dispensed glue dries quickly: Typically, a drop of dispensed glue remains fresh for 20 to 30 minutes. However, if the humidity is over 60%, the glue will start curing much faster, and you’ll need to replace the drop every 10-15 minutes.
High humidity can lead to problems such as shock polymerization and poor attachment, as the adhesive may already be partially cured.
4. Proper Lash Cleaning and Aftercare
This is the secret to excellent retention! Make sure to wash your clients’ lashes at the beginning of every appointment! Clean natural lashes are essential for effective adhesive bonding. Ensure your clients clean their lashes before each appointment and aftercare routines are followed closely. This helps remove natural oils, dirt, and makeup that could interfere with retention. Recommend a lash cleanser or foam specifically designed for extensions, and avoid products with oil as they can break down the adhesive. Additionally, encourage your clients to avoid touching their lashes frequently and to avoid rubbing their eyes.
5. Avoid Excessive Adhesive Use
While it may seem like using more glue would improve retention, this is a common mistake. Applying too much adhesive can lead to clumping and can cause the extensions to weigh down natural lashes, leading to premature fallout. Instead, use a minimal amount of glue to ensure proper bonding without overwhelming the natural lashes.
6. Super Bonder for Lash Extensions
To improve the longevity of lash extensions, consider using a super bonder. This product helps to speed up the curing process, making the adhesive bond stronger and more flexible. It can be especially beneficial in high humidity environments or when you’re working with clients who have oilier skin.
7. Teach Clients About Lash Growth Cycles
Educating your clients on how the natural lash growth cycle works is vital. Explain that it’s normal for lashes to shed naturally, and clients will see lashes falling out over time, along with the extensions attached. This can help reduce panic and complaints from clients who are new to lash extensions. Understanding the phases of the natural lash cycle—from the anagen (growth) phase to the telogen (resting) phase—can help clients manage their expectations and understand that occasional lash loss is part of the process.
8. Client Habits Matter
Clients’ habits play a big role in lash retention. Ask clients about their lifestyle, makeup routine, and sleeping habits. For example, sleeping on their face or using oily makeup can negatively impact retention. Client education is a massive factor in lash retention. Encourage your clients to sleep on their back, avoid touching their lashes, and choose oil-free makeup and skincare products. Having a conversation with clients about their habits can help improve retention and prevent future issues.
9. Monitor Lash Type and Curl Choice
Each client’s natural lashes are different, and the curl type you use for extensions can affect retention. For example, C curls, B curls, and L+ curls tend to have better retention because they provide a larger surface area for the adhesive to bond with. On the other hand, D curls or very curly lashes may have lower retention rates because the bond is not as strong. If you’re encountering retention issues with a specific curl type, take the time to experiment and find the ideal lash style that works best for that client.
10. Store Your Adhesives Properly
Proper adhesive storage is crucial for long-term performance. Store opened bottles of adhesive in airtight containers to prevent moisture buildup, and keep track of the expiration dates. Avoid storing glue in the fridge, as temperature fluctuations can lead to condensation inside the bottle, which can degrade the glue’s effectiveness. Instead, keep adhesive at room temperature, in a cool, dry place.
Conclusion: Achieving Lasting Lash Retention
Mastering lash retention requires a combination of technique, product knowledge, and client education. By creating an optimal environment in your studio, choosing the right products, and maintaining clear communication with your clients, you can significantly improve retention and ensure long-lasting, beautiful lashes. As lash artists, we must continually fine-tune our practices and learn how to address challenges that arise. With the right tools, knowledge, and care, you’ll be able to deliver stunning results that keep your clients coming back for more.
